E-brake non-op

dropt_98

dropt_98

New Member
Alright guys, just as the title says, my e-brake has been non-op since this past summer, the cable is sagging a couple inches lower than it normally should be. Once the weather gets a bit warmer (lovely Ohio weather) I'm planning on redoing the rear brakes (im betting they are more than shot), what all do I need to redo the e-brake? Thanks!
 
I think the setup inside of the drums is shot too, I am debating if I even have rear brakes at the moment. Unfortunately my jack & jack stands were stolen this fall so I haven't been able to jack it up and see whats going on
 
you will need brake shoes e-brake cables and a brakes parts kit it should include all new hardware for your drum brakes... or atleast i think it should....
 
i just go to my local auto parts store... but as far as asking our opinon on good places to get your supplies you'll get 6 answers going one way and half a dozen going another.... just my .02..
 
Haha thanks for the .02. I used to have a group of friends out where I live who used to hang and work on cars, and since then they've either gotten arrested, f'd off somewhere else, or just disappeared. So I have no one to chat cars with, so I appreciate the help. I'm the only one in my town that appears to even give a crap about their ranger. All the other ones I see are stock and beat to hell & back lol
 
You're 2wd. Find yourself an explorer 8.8 with disc brakes. My axle came with working cables from the JY. Plus with you being lowered, you can drop the axle right in (spring under axle) and have it 4 inches lower than the stock height. The swap is stupid simple on a lowered truck. It will be more expensive (all new brakes/u-bolts/etc) but will be cheaper and simpler to work on in the future.
 
Hm, is there a DIY info on swapping to an 8.8? I'd love to have a posi rear end & disc brakes. mmmmm no more one-wheel-wonders lol.
 
Didn't know if they mounted up the same or if I needed to fab brackets for the shocks & leaf springs. Will the master cyl work for disc brakes in the back or do I need to upgrade it to an explorers?
 
An exploder is just a 4 door ranger with an enclosed bed basically. Little different body style but mechanically the same. ie the frame on an exploder is the same as a ranger just stretched a little longer.
 
dropt_98 said:
Didn't know if they mounted up the same or if I needed to fab brackets for the shocks & leaf springs. Will the master cyl work for disc brakes in the back or do I need to upgrade it to an explorers?
Click to expand...

People say you need a new master, but I didn't swap mine. I could still lock my 33's up on dry pavement.
 
Thanks for all the info guys, guess I know what my new spring mod is going to be once I get a little cash and it warms up! Right now the wind chill this morning is around 8 degrees!
 
Thanks Brinker, I'll probably be looking for a new rear end soon. Right now I'm dealing with 2 very stubborn lug nuts that won't break loose. Sprayed them with PB blaster and still no luck. Any ideas anyone?
 
Put a socket and ratchet then put a pipe on the ratchet and push down with all your weight. Make sure you have the exact size socket.
 
If I do that man I'm gonna snap the stud. Almost bent my breaker bar. I need someone with air tools to try and slowly break it loose. I'm hoping that the night soaking in pb blaster helped some at least lol. I'm not really lookin to snap any studs off this time around, we are supposed to get 8-10 inches of snow here by tomorrow night and I need the truck running
 
Replacing a stud in the rear is stupid simple (as is the front). You should have enough room to get the new stud in w/out removing the shaft. Use a bunch of washers and a 1/2-20 nut (NOT a lug nut) to install it.
 
I'm heading to my buddys shop tomorrow afternoon (hopefully before the snow hits) to see if I can get an impact to knock it loose. Been sprayin with pb blaster since yesterday evening
 
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