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That what I figured, i mean the 4.10's seem perfect for my 33"s so 4.56's should be the same or a little better with 35"S
Even with the thinner ring of the 4.56, it may not clear the Torsen crosspin(which really isn't a pin, it's a block). I had to run an open carrier in my '05 LII axle when I geared to 4.88...luckily I had an explorer axle w/ open carrier sitting in my shop so I wasn't down at at friends shop for too long. Then later put in a a lunchbox locker. Now it's got an Auburn Ected and I regret ever having the Aussie lunchbox. Torsen to ring gear clearances may have to be a "do it and find out" sorta deal like mine. One things for certain, 4.88 and torsen do not mix. lol. Everything else sounds like you've got a good head on the shoulders. Doing things right. Good work, son. lol.
I have a poertrax locker in mine, I had to shave down one of the teeth to get the rod to slide in.. But other than that no biggie putting it in
I had a F-150 with 35s and absolutely no gear change. It was a bit doggy but unless your goin thorugh mud bogs every weekend and MPG is a big concern, I think 4.10s would be plenty. And again, it had a 5.4, not a 4.0 lol IMO, 33s would be good enough but 35s would look BA! If you build it right, it shouldnt wear TOO bad unless you drive it like you stole it. But I honestly have no idea. I bought my F-150 already jacked and had it for a year and a half before trading it in. I didnt have it long enough to experience wear and tear. I miss it :icon_cry:
Your crosspin will NOT clear your ring gear FYI. You have to either get a notched pin and install it in the carrier before you bolt on the ring gear OR slightly grind down 1 or two teeth to get the pin to fit out. I did this bc Im installing a locker and needed to get the pin out. I've had no ill effects with this mod.
lol It's a close race. Adam, why don't you run the tires you have now when you put your lift on, then when they wear out, if you don't like em get 35s. If you do like em, stick with 33s. Problem solved haha
Turd's differential doesn't have the typical crosspin shaft, so a notched crosspin won't help him. If he did, yeah a notched pin or tooth grinding would work. To get a 4.88 ring to clear the Torsen diff "crossblock", literally the entire tooth of about 4 teeth need removed. According to my axle guy, grinding away more than 25% in depth of a tooth greatly reduces it's strength and well it doesn't take a axle guru to know removing a good amount of a number of teeth isn't smart. lol. And I do have ground teeth. So long the edges of the teeth are smoothed and grinding/flapdisc job isn't horribly botched or excessive, it's all good, safe, and common practice with deep gears. And FWIW strengthwise: Grinding > Notched Pin Here's where we get iffy... I've had GREAT luck getting GREAT money out of selling used tires. Instead of leaving them on til they're total junk, get new tires or better used ones on the truck then sell the ones that just came off. I actually did this recently. Bought a set of 70%ish 35x12.50r15 BFG KM's back in spring '09 for $200. Used them for 20k or so and sold them for $250....with horrible wear on two(fronts) and overall about 25%ish tread! Sure makes the $920 bill for new meats feel alot better to my wallet. Just sayin'...think about it.
I have been trying to buy used tires for a few months now and have had zero luck finding anything worth buying. Im looking for some mud terrains for cheap but eBay only has bald tires and/or way too expensive ones
I have a buddy with a 97 running 35" Dick Cepek FC-II's. 9" of lift. ONLY thing he replaced was the auto locks for manuals and the front axle when he snapped it in half back in the woods. Truck has 210k and never touched anything else.
Fx4, that's good info there, I didnt think about what axle components he had. I removed my notched crosspin for the fact that it's weak. I ground 2 teeth about 1/16 of the tooth on each one. Turned out great.