Double Lifted on 33"s or 35"s?

Double Lifted on 33's or 35's

  • 33"

    Votes: 9 47.4%

  • 35"

    Votes: 10 52.6%
  • Total voters
    19
  • Poll closed .
TurdFX4

TurdFX4

Schuylkill Countys Finest
Before I do my superlift and get new tires, Im trying to decide what would be better, 33"s or 35"s? I currently have 33"s on the truck now and it looks good. They do rub a lil but thats not really my concern with the 35"s. I just don't know how it would look. I've seen a couple trucks that are double lifted but only have 33"s and they do look good. Im just trying to get opinions here guys
 
Brinker88 said:
I say 35s after your coilover conversion and gear swap
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If i did a gear swap, I'd have to ditch the torsen in the rear and upgrade. I heard they wont work with a gear lower than 4.10

I mean, dont get me wrong, I'd love to have 4.56's, but then Id have to swap out the differential... and honestly while I was at it, id put a L/S in the front too

and if Im willing to do all that.. why not SAS it lolol... it all snowballs
 
33's is my vote. If you put 35's on you will be dumping more money into your truck over a matter of 2 inches
 
35's... Don't be a bitch. lol.


djfllmn said:
35s will wear your **** out a lot faster
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Aaaaand you can say this from experience???

The additional wear is minimal. Having had 35's on mine for going on 5 years now and approaching 60k, I can say that from experience. Yes everything under the front save for the inner rod ends have been replaced. But that's fairly normal for any of these trucks with 140k on them. It needed BJ's at like 70k, bearing failed at like 110k, outer rod ends at about 115. My point being, I feel the stock parts lasted their lives just fine...I couldn't have been happier. But the best part of it all is the replacements that have age (moog bj's) are lasting ALOT better than the stock parts they replaced. It irks me when people give suggestions based on "heresay".


Brinker88 said:
I say 35s after your coilover conversion and gear swap
Click to expand...

If you can swing 35's right off the bat, I'd suggest that. DEFINITELY you would want to look into gearing it. Period. I still pull 19-20 on the freeway and have tons of spirited in-city driving. Not to mention actually having a good slow torquey low gear when playing. 4.88's ftw.
 
TurdFX4 said:
I could use 2 more inches though
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Fx4wannabe01 said:
35's... Don't be a bitch. lol.




Aaaaand you can say this from experience???

The additional wear is minimal. Having had 35's on mine for going on 5 years now and approaching 60k, I can say that from experience. Yes everything under the front save for the inner rod ends have been replaced. But that's fairly normal for any of these trucks with 140k on them. It needed BJ's at like 70k, bearing failed at like 110k, outer rod ends at about 115. My point being, I feel the stock parts lasted their lives just fine...I couldn't have been happier. But the best part of it all is the replacements that have age (moog bj's) are lasting ALOT better than the stock parts they replaced. It irks me when people give suggestions based on "heresay".




If you can swing 35's right off the bat, I'd suggest that. DEFINITELY you would want to look into gearing it. Period. I still pull 19-20 on the freeway and have tons of spirited in-city driving. Not to mention actually having a good slow torquey low gear when playing. 4.88's ftw.
Click to expand...

Well, I was going to replace pretty much everything while the whole front end is apart, moog uca's, moog lower bj's, tie rod ends, possibly the axles too right away, and drop the front diff and change out the gear oil... its all basically preventative , although the lower bj on the driver side is going bad. Both hubs have been replaced since within the last 2 years... the driver side being replaced 3 times ( they told me the wrong torque, dont judge me lol )

There's a girl here thats selling a older lifted S-10 with 35" cooper stt's which have barely any mileage on them, Im loooking into buying the tires off of her.

And I was thinking 4.56's if I would do a re-gear... but if I go with 4.56 why not go with 4.88's... but I know id have to ditch the Torsen rear and go with another L/S or a locker
 
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