Still having those wonderful front end problems...

I'm almost positive it's the pinion now. The U joints are solid, and there's no play at all in the hubs. So that's all I can think of....especially since it just started since the pinion seal went. And it's pouring out fluid, so it ain't no small leak.
 
Clinton wtf are you talking about not being Grave Digger? My trucks meant to be beaten. Then again, I've dropped some serious coin in this bitch to take the abuse. Also, I dont have that ****ty IFS :D

And RedRanger, Stop wasting our time with pointless questions you KNOW we cant answer because we arent there, and sell that POS ranger and get a decent TTB ranger (preferably a 3rd Gen) that isnt beaten, and BUILD the SOB before you go beating on it. :thumbsup:
 
Brinker88 said:
Clinton wtf are you talking about not being Grave Digger? My trucks meant to be beaten. Then again, I've dropped some serious coin in this bitch to take the abuse. Also, I dont have that ****ty IFS :D

And RedRanger, Stop wasting our time with pointless questions you KNOW we cant answer because we arent there, and sell that POS ranger and get a decent TTB ranger (preferably a 3rd Gen) that isnt beaten, and BUILD the SOB before you go beating on it. :thumbsup:
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so you mean i cant take my damn near bone stock 2000 out an beat on it cuz i fuc ck sh it up on it? lmao
 
Im saying they arent designed to take as much abuse as a TTB ranger. If you wanna beat on your truck and keep the maintenance low, Take my fuc king advice.

Just saying.
 
Fight nice now ladies.

I'm taking it to a garage today to have it checked out, and schedule an appointment to have it fixed. It's something with the 4wd, and I'm not messing with that. I'd rather have a professional do it.
 
I just talked to a local garage. They said that even if they had to replace the entire rear, it would be under $500 to get it done, including labor. So it ain't as bad as you're telling me.
 
You're looking at $100 for a rebuild kit, 3 hours to tear it out, another 4 hours to rebuild the diff and another 3 hours to reinstall it. At MINIMUM $60/hr. So you're looking at $700 right there.

Im just warning you what you're getting into. I doubt they can fix that problem for anything less than that and be a reputable company. It just doesnt seem plausible.

They're going to tell you to replace the entire third member. That way they can keep labor costs down and not have to **** with setting up the gears. If they do go this way (which I can garuntee you they will ) make SURE they replace all the seals they can get to w/out tearing into the third member.
 
Lmfao... Craig, this forum would be nothing without you lol The only thing is, I don't have the TTB setup, although that may not matter all that much.
 
It does matter....If it were a TTB setup, the diff can be pulled in about 1.5 hrs instead of 3 hours.
 
I meant what's inside. Brad, the place I'm going to is cheap labor because they have so many customers. I can't even get it in to have it looked at until Monday. So they can afford to lower their labor rates. I really don't think it's going to be all of what you tell me pricewise... They told me that even if I did need the whole diff replaced, it would be under $500. And it's a private garage, not a chain.
 
**A little update** My dad went out to look at the front end, because there was a few foot long streak of gear oil coming from the diff. He told me that he could move the driveshaft around a little bit, but the u joint was fine. I never had the chance to take the truck to a garage this week because I had been battling a major fever, and my garage had been extremely busy. So it is going in on Monday. Anyone have a suggestion as to what it is, just so I can give the mechanic an idea of what it may be?

My amateur opinion would be the pinion bearings... That's what I've been told by others.
 
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Okay, so took it in today, well my dad did... They pulled the diff open and said that everything inside had a lot of play in it. So he's probably just going to rebuild the diff entirely.
 
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