Removing power window motor??

buggman

buggman

Do not touch the trim!
My pass side window seems to have decided that it no longer wants to roll up or down despite my lubing up the entire mechanism with more grease & oil than you'd find in Jenna Jameson's bathroom.

The switch seems fine & the motor will roll up/down sometimes, but it's always been slow & labored when it did work.
Right after each lubing & smacking it around to get it to roll down, it works for a bit but the next day it's stuck again.

I think I may try to tackle replacing the motor, but I have no idea what I'm getting into. A couple years ago, I cut out the window motors & mechanisms from a 98 explorer which I have stashed in one of my many boxes of parts in the attic & I may see if one of those motors will fit.

As I remember, the gears & motor are all riveted onto the doors & need to be drilled out & seems like I remember something about a tension spring too. The last thing I want to do is get the motor & mechanism screwed up where I can't roll up the windows :(

Has anyone changed the motor and/or mechanism?
Any tips or tricks?
 
i'm not sure if you can replace just the motor on these. the explorer regulator will not work, so the motors may not either.

there are four rivets that need to be drilled out. once they are out, you just it out of the channel that the glass is riveted to. you will then take it out of the large hole in the door. you may have to turn and rotate it to get it right. you can use bolts to put it back in, but one or two are difficult to get a nut on, so turn those around so the nut is on the outside.
 
R-F.com has a good write up on converting from Manual Windows to Power, it has the disassembly procedure. I know this isn’t what you are doing and may not help a lot but my point and I am getting to it… tape the window up out of the way when you take out the motor !

That was the first step in the procedure and I think a good one.

I think you will need to remove the motor assembly then the motor MAY BE able to be removed.

ltr
 
Explorer motor may work, motors bolt on with 3 bolts to the regulator. 10mm heads if I remember. I used Windstar motors in my first Ranger. The later regulators have a spring on them to assist in raising the glass. It should not be an issue. You should be able to pull the motor and leave the regulator riveted on. I "think" I swapped a motor on my 97.
If you have an extra switch, I would try that first. I have always had issues with the switches working intermittently. Once I had a broken wire going from the door post to the door.
The power goes through both driver and passenger switches for the passenger window.
 
this was pulled off of autozone.com

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Open the window. Remove the trim panel and watershield and support the window.
  3. Disconnect the power window motor connector.
  4. There may be a drill dimple in the door panel, opposite the concealed motor retaining bolt. Drill out the dimple to gain access to the bolt. Be careful to avoid damage to the wires. Remove the motor mounting bolts and remove the motor and regulator assembly.
  5. Separate the motor and drive from the regulator on a workbench.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
  7. Check for smooth operation before installing the trim panel.
as far as the exploder motor fitting im not really positive if it will work or not....
 
Well, the Ford manual says you gotta pull it as a unit. I really think you can squeeze the motor out on it's own.
If you do pull the whole unit, and it's a factory original installation, use a drift pin to drive out the center of the rivets before you drill. it makes it a whole lot easier. Those center pins are a PITA to try and drill.
 
Thanks guys,
Seems like the expo motors had 3 bolts holding them onto the regulators... I'll have to check 'em out next time I'm up in the attic.

If the motors will swap out, I'm gonna give that a shot before I spend a bunch of dough on a new motor or assembly. I'd really like to get the pass side window working again the way it used to or the way it's supposed to.

I had to not only drill out the rivets in the expo door, but I had to take an angle grinder and cut out a chunk of the door panel... it was hot & I was dead tired & didn't have to be too nice about it as the truck was going to be scrapped in a couple days anyhow.

If the entire regulator/motor assembly needs to come out, should I use some grade 8 or even galvanized bolts or would plain old zinc plated bolts suffice?
I don't think there will be that much moisture in there, but I wouldn't want the bolts to rust in place in case I ever have to replace it again.
 
I used whatever old bolts I found in the bolt bucket. Since I did that first truck, I went fancy and got a riveter that does 3/16 and 1/4 rivets. Air operated even. I don't see any need for special bolts.
 
If I recall correctly, the main difference in the Ford window motors is the drive gear size.
 
Grade “8” are not necessary but if you got’um, use'um…

Also, at least a zinc plating should be used, the area can get wet and it doesn’t hurt.

S/S nice if you can afford them, Button Heads would be good too.
 
I couldn't get the old motor all the way out. The window won't budge a bit & I can't get the tension off the gears to pop the motor out without the window crashing down on me.
Arrrrgh!!

I really didn't feel like beating the door with a hammer & it started raining on me so I just put things back together & said enough for today.

On a side note I also found that my door speaker is disintegrated too. The foam surrounding the cone fell apart with the slightest touch.
Really odd as the last set of speakers I had did the same thing, but they were 10 years old. These were only a few years old.
What in the world would make that happen?? I don't use any chemicals to clean the inside, or I haven't for years... the truck does set in the sun all the time, but I wouldn't think that would fry the butyl surrounds that quick.
 
to keep the window from crashing dow you can take some metal coat hangers and cut you a pieces big enough to reach down inside the door from the top and bend them into s shapes to where it will hold the weight of the window while your changing the motor....
 
Try a rod to "pry" up on the bottom track of the window. That might release enough tension to get it out.

Try Mustang or Lincoln speakers. The rear of them are fully enclosed to keep out moisture and improve sound.
 
klinger86 said:
to keep the window from crashing dow you can take some metal coat hangers and cut you a pieces big enough to reach down inside the door from the top and bend them into s shapes to where it will hold the weight of the window while your changing the motor....
Click to expand...

I like that idea!

Wouldn't hurt if I were to go on a diet before I try & crawl inside the door again :huh:
 
Still not sure what's going on with the speakers though...

This is the 2nd time the rubber/butyl surrounds have literally disintegrated like this. Last time it was my rear speakers, now the doors... These Kenwoods were really nice speakers too :cry:
I might just get some cheap-o 5x7's to throw in there to see how they hold up.
 
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