2000 ranger intermittent problem :[

Discussion in '1998 - 2011 Ford Ranger' started by Will, May 30, 2019.

  1. Will

    Will New Member

    Ok so i have a 2000 ranger with a 3.0 v6.
    The problem im having is an intermittent starting problem. I turn the key and it starts and fires but not enough to take and keep running. The problem is somtimes it will start and run perfectly for a week or so then when you park it and start it back up it fires but not enough to stay running. Then randomly a month later will start and run again for another week. Ive worked on plently of cars but this one has me stumped any input would be apreciated.

    So far ive done:
    Ignition coil pack
    Plugs and wires
    Tested spark[looks good]
    Put fuel pressure tester on it [looks good with key on amd keeps pressure when off]
    Crankshaft position sensor
    Cam position sensor
    Egr valve
    Tested egr selonoid [diddnt make a difference when trying to start]
    Fuel pump kicks right on when key is turned [tried priming it several times before startup]
    Cleaned maf sensor
    Cleaned iac sensor
    New fuel filter
    Looked for corroded grounds [diddnt find any]
    Diddnt test ignition switch because when it did run for a week or so it ran perfectly]
    Oh and just food for thought when you crank it and it fires but not enough to run it seems like its running super rich

    Any input is aappreciated i just dont know what else to do.
     
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  3. Jeremy B

    Jeremy B New Member

    I am having the same problem with a 2002 V6 3.0 did you get it figurer out ?
     
  4. hankosaurus

    hankosaurus New Member

    What OBD II codes are showing? I have that truck and similar situation. It was the IAC module being flaky. 154K miles.

    Henry in Georgia
     
  5. Efisher26

    Efisher26 New Member

    Fuel pump? Pressure might be good when running but might have have issues priming at startup


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. Juliofrancis

    Juliofrancis New Member

    In the case of my 3.0L (2003) it became very hard to start when cold. Did everything you listed and a few more besides. Every electrical component tested out within spec when tested for resistance, voltage (back probed while operating) and voltage was correct at the connectors (key on engine off). It reminded me of an old carbureted engine that lacked a choke. I used a spray bottle to spray atomized gasoline into the manifold plenum through the EGR connection tube on the plenum (and push the EGR tube back on). The engine immediately fired like it should. It took about 3 attempts to get the engine to run. I had to get it up to 1500-2000 rpm to keep running. Once warmed it ran normally, but when cold I could drain the battery twice and still not get it to start beyond the first cough. By using live data from a ODB code reader it turned out that the engine was functioning on the belief that it was warmed up and was bypassing the cold start settings. Although the Engine Coolant Sensor showed the correct resistance for a cold engine the PCM was reading it as 90-100 deg F warmer than it actually was. What was at fault? The PCM or the ECT sensor? I dont know to this day. I replaced the ECT sensor and it went back to normal operation, -problem gone.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2020

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