Written by member Mfernandes In this How-to I will show you what to do when you upgrade your cluster to newerer models (like Sportrack white/silver ones) and things dont work in the way they should. These are the common issues: 1- temp gage 2- check engine light 3- door ajar light lets begin: 1- TEMP GAGE: The problem is that older models (up to 98) uses a resistor on this gage motor, and newerer models wont have this resistor at the back. As a result, this gauge is not accurate and totally useless: Temp gauge at "normal" temp: its way down, the normal temperature should be arround the half of the graphic scale What you will need to do is to dissamble the cluster, remove the temp/gas gauges panel (left panel) and simply remove the 2 screws that holds this motor on place (T-10 Torx screwdriver). Once this motor is out, simply replace with your OLD MOTOR, WHICH SHOULD HAVE A RESISTOR IN THE BACK: Original white/silver temp gauge motor: note theres no resistor at the back Once the new motor is in place, simply put the needle back in place. Place it at the bottom if the truck is cold or simply let it idle for 10-15mins and place it at the normal temperature. YOURE DONE! 2, 3- CHECK ENGINE / DOOR AJAR LIGHTS: The problem is that the back circuit changed with the years. Simple, we are going to re-route this lights. "Door Ajar" will light up as "CHECK FUEL CAP" and "check engine" will not light up Reroute IN YOUR NEW WHITE/SILVER CLUSTER "CHECK FUEL CAP" TO "DOOR AJAR" AND THE BLIND LIGHT TO "CHECK ENGINE" JUST ABOVE "CHECK FUEL CAP" Blind light to "check engine" reroute "check fuel cap" to "door ajar" (in the middle of the cluster) reroute Youre done! Now your lights and gauges will work the same way as your original cluster! Enjoy!!!
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There is another method for the temp issue. The resistor pulls right off the pegs. You can simply remove the resistor and place is on the current temp gauge. Doing this will eliminate the need to reset the needle.
