Engine bogs

Discussion in '4.0 Engine' started by Redneck_ranger, Feb 23, 2012.

  1. Alright, so when I'm coming to a stop, sometimes my engine will bog down and the lights dim. Seems like it does it when it's downshifting back into first gear at a stop sign or light. Then when I step on the gas a bit to get it back up, it bogs more and then jumps a few hundred rpms. When I say bogs, I mean drops down to 2-300 rpm, and has even stalled out on me a few times because of it. I think it could possibly be something with the transmission. Anybody got an idea? It's done it since I bought the truck, but has picked up lately
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  3. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

  4. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    It ain't from the mud. It seems almost like the transmission sticks when it shifts into first and second, and down from second or higher into first. It's not like it's a major issue, just something that I was curious about.
  5. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Check UNDER your air filter. Change your fuel filter and clean your MAF and Throttle body. Also check your EGR valve for clogging and your vacuum lines. Routine maintanance is a must bud. If you dont know how to do it, pay someone else. It needs to be done if it's bogging down. It's hurting your gas mileage and all that other b/s. Also if your transmission is acting up like you say, do a filter change on that they are extremely easy

    Oh and before I forget, since you've gone mudding a lot in this thing I HIGHLY suggest you change your gear oil in both axles, it has to look like chocolate pudding by now. You WILL ruin your axles if you dont do this regularly.
  6. hazard-maine

    hazard-maine northern ranger driver

    i think he also is talking about the the burn out
  7. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    I was just thinking about changing the filter today because my filler neck started leaking when I put gas in it. And gear oil has just been changed when the last pinion seal was put in, and when the front diff was changed. The weird thing is, I was just thinking about doing all the stuff you just told me, aside from the gear oil lol I should seafoam it too, since it needs an oil change.
  8. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    I do kind of know my sh it :D
  9. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    lol Never said you didn't. Off topic, but it's not a big enough question for a new thread... The filler neck I mentioned previously... I'm gonna order a new one soon, but does it need an extension or anything to accomodate for the body lift?
  10. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Yes it does. Head down to your local hose assy. shop or hydraulic hose shop and get a couple feet of Fuel hose. NAPA should have it in stock by the foot.
  11. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    Alright, will do. Thanks Brad! Back on topic, I use carb cleaner for my throttle body, but then it didn't run right for a week. The fuel filter I can handle. Sprayed the MAF with sensor cleaner. Never touched the EGR or the vacuum lines. Can I just seafoam it? Or do I have to pull them apart to clean them?
  12. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    You need special disconnect tools for the fuel filter (they're plastic and dirt cheap). As for the EGR, you need to completely dissasemble it. When you dissasemble it tho, you will need a new gasket for it.

    Also, have you done the throttle cable mod? If not, I'll do a writeup on it.
  13. OP

    Redneck_ranger Banned

    No, I didn't. Mine isn't too stretched out yet... And I think I'll leave the EGR for someone that knows what they're doing. With my luck, I'd screw something up majorly. I'll take a look at one in the yard Saturday and see how bad it is to take it apart
  14. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    It's 2 bolts, vaccuum lines, and the large tube held on by I believe a 7/8" nut

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