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Why they put 3.27's in a 4x4, I will never understand. You would think 3.73's would be the tallest they would use for any 4x4 application. Did you already buy the gears? If not, you might want to consider 4.56's. A good friend of mine had 4.10's combined with 33's and the 4.0, and was never...

Thanks for the compliment man. Yeah, the Ranger addiction is a funny thing. This truck looks nothing like I originally pictured before I started. Ha ha. Enjoy that 4.0! That's next on my list. Just gota blow up the little 2.9 first. Ha ha.

Thanks for the tips Brinker. I designed them this way for certain reasons. I've done some flex tests, road tests, and bounce tests, and so far, I'm pleased. Is it the best ride? No. That's not what I'm shooting for. Flex is my goal. If they don't work out after the first wheeling trip or two, I...

Well thank you.... You sure are quick to pick other peoples trucks apart... They actually do a fine job. Keep in mind, this is a dedicated trail rig. It is not my DD like your truck. This truck has no business on the road.

A c-clip eliminator is definitely the way to go. I didn't do it, because I'm kind of on a time line, and have to have it done next week (moving in with the fiancee). Sounds like you have her under control bud:thumbup: As to the brake line deal, I figured out the easiest/cheapest rig, a few...

This! I replaced damn near every pulley in my 03' before realizing that this was the problem. If it is the cam synchronizer, fix it NOW. If it breaks apart, you are fuggen screwed! Time for a new 3.0:( Regards -Denny

If it's not a freeze plug, it could be the head gasket (hopefully not). I had it happen on my 97'F-150 4.6. It ran great and everything, just leaked badly. My fan clutch went out, which made it over heat a few times on the way home from work, in turn warping my passenger side head just enough to...

Welcome to RF! Hope you find the help you need. Regards -Denny

Ha ha, honestly, the cheapest (not necessarily easiest) mod, is a lighter right foot. Unfortunately, these trucks don't really get the best gas millage. It's just part of owning a 20 some odd year old rig. Happy motoring:thumbsup: Regards -Denny

^^What Hooligan said My 03' was the same way too. Ha ha, it was a pain in the ass!

Those were some of the only years of GM trucks, that I would ever consider buying. You're poor brother will end up regretting that sale indefinitely. Ha ha. It won't be too long before they are considered collectibles, and worth mucho dinero! Especially in that kind of shape. Regards -Denny

Oh, and by the way, the check engine light doesn't have to be on, for it to throw a code. It could have a code stored in it. Sometimes the CEL flashed briefly, and you don't even see it. Also, it could have a burned out bulb. When you first turn your key forward, does the CEL flash? That's one...

I'm positive it has something to do with vacuum. Have you used brake clean, or anything to check for leaks? I had the same problem with my 2.9, and it turned out to be a vacuum clog. Clogs can give the same symptoms as a leak. I had to take my whole intake system apart, and do a super clean...

My 87' has a few "I go nowhere" wires. Everything works, so I pay no mind to them. Both your AC and Power steering pumps will be belt driven, therefore would be located in the front. By the way.... I've never heard of a 1987 Ranger that didn't have power steering! Ha ha. That's hilarious...

Thanks Hooligan. I enjoy helping when and where I can, with what knowledge I've gained through error after error. Ha ha. Hopefully I can keep people from F-ing up the way I have! Ha ha ha. I really appreciate the kind words! Thanks again

Yeah, you're right where your supposed to be man. Hate to see you change it, and realize it was a huge mistake.

I've found manual t-cases on CL for like $50. Keep an eye out, because they pop up here and there. At my local junk yard they run about $100.

Yeah, unless you're doing some serious hard core wheeling, your factory 8.8 will be plenty sufficient. I wouldn't bother if I were you.

Oh okay. I didn't read the whole thread. I must have missed something. I was talking about the 1354M with slip yoke, being a very straight forward deal. I'm positive they didn't design M50D's and A4LD's differently based on e-shift, or manual. They all have the same t-case bolt pattern.

Not to be rude, but there was some pretty backwards stuff posted in here. 1: The explorer 8.8 is definitely not a bolt in deal. The Ranger 8.8 will bolt up, but he will have to drill and tap the yoke in order for the drive shaft to match up, otherwise, he would have to pick up a 1990 and up...