31 spline 8.8 swap question?

Discussion in 'Drivetrain Tech' started by C Denny Run*, Aug 24, 2011.

  1. C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    Hey guys. I just finished building my sploder 8.8, and have a question about what to use for brake lines.

    What I did:

    Removed leaf spring tabs, and relocated them to accommodate top mount leafs, eliminated the sway bar mounts, relocated the shocks so they look like this / \, installed 5.13 gears, Lincoln locked it, changed it to disc brakes, then cleaned and painted it.

    At this point it's under the truck, and ready to go except for the brake lines. I tried a few things, but keep getting leaks. Has anyone here done this swap, and know of any lines that bolt up to the calipers, and connect to the three way splitter with 1/8" flanged tubing?

    If anyone has any info on this, it would be greatly appreciated!

    Here are some pics, just for fun. Thanks again! Oh and by the way, it'd going in to a 87' extended cab 4x4, if that helps.

    When I first got it

    [​IMG]

    Setting my gear pattern

    [​IMG]

    All brackets removed, and grinded smooth. I also welded the tube to the pig.

    [​IMG]

    Leaf tabs welded on

    [​IMG]

    Disk brakes cleaned and painted

    [​IMG]

    Finished product

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2011
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  3. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Um, Why didnt you go with a 96+ explorer 8.8? It already has the disc brakes on it and a 4.10 up limited slip carrier....
     
  4. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    That would be because I don't want LS, and I got the axle for $75. The disc brake setup was $35 from a junk yard (in great shape). My carrier had 373's and my 5.13's worked out just fine. The only 31 spline 8.8's I found in my area with disc brakes, were $350+

    And just for the record, the disc brakes bolt right up the axle. There is zero fabrication involved.

    Reason enough?:sailor:
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2011
    Trumps my.president likes this.
  5. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Sweet. Good deal. Im in the middle of the swap right now and all I needed was 4.10s with my 33's and I wanted the limited slip. Good work dude!
     
  6. Hooligan

    Hooligan Rangerholic!!

    Really nice work man!
     
  7. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    Thanks guys. It's been a great build so far. I'm running 5.13's, because I scored a sweet deal on 35x13.5 Toyo MT's, with DC something or others, and my little 2.9 could NO way handle them on the trail. Lol.

    I also did the D35 swap, and a number of other things. It's half truggy, and half street legal. Not that it'll be a comfortable ride, but you can't have it all right? Ha ha

    Thanks for the compliments. And good luck with your swap Brinker. If you need any tips, or tech help, feel free to shoot me a PM. I love this stuff. ha ha

    -Denny
     
  8. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Pretty much gotter down to a science. I'll run the stock 6 degree caster on it. Not sure whether or not Im going to use a c-clip eliminator.
     
  9. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    A c-clip eliminator is definitely the way to go. I didn't do it, because I'm kind of on a time line, and have to have it done next week (moving in with the fiancee). Sounds like you have her under control bud:thumbup:

    As to the brake line deal, I figured out the easiest/cheapest rig, a few weeks ago, but forgot to post it. I went to the junk yard, and picked up two passenger side rear brake lines off a 98' explorer. They are perfect! I had to cut a few inches off the existing metal brake line, step down to the next size thread, and re-flange the tubing. I think it took a total 25 minutes once I had everything there. I also cut the mounting plate off the end of it. Not totally necessary, but looks MUCH better.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    You might as well not have shocks on that axle the way they're set up. It's pointless.
     
  11. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    Well thank you.... You sure are quick to pick other peoples trucks apart...

    They actually do a fine job. Keep in mind, this is a dedicated trail rig. It is not my DD like your truck. This truck has no business on the road.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2011
  12. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Im just sayin dude, There is no way they're doing their job. Trust me, Im a suspension tech. To work properly, they would have to be a no more than a 30 degree angle from vertical to absorb shock properly from the suspension, need to be mounted on the bottom of the axle so the mounts wont shear off from axle wrap, etc.

    Im not being a dick, just giving some helpful hints.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2011
  13. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    Thanks for the tips Brinker. I designed them this way for certain reasons. I've done some flex tests, road tests, and bounce tests, and so far, I'm pleased. Is it the best ride? No. That's not what I'm shooting for. Flex is my goal. If they don't work out after the first wheeling trip or two, I can always change the configuration. This is a project that will change quite a bit over time. I call it "The even changing truck". An hour of cutting and welding is all it takes. Keep in mind, this isn't that uncommon of a configuration either. I've talked to several off road enthusiasts, who have or do run something similar, that's how I came up with this.

    Thanks again for the input.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2011
  14. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    I know how that "ever changing truck" thing is. When I first bought mine the biggest tire I wanted to run was a 31...now Im doing a gear/axle swap and have 33s...

    Good luck with the truck...everything else looks great
     
  15. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    Thanks for the compliment man. Yeah, the Ranger addiction is a funny thing. This truck looks nothing like I originally pictured before I started. Ha ha. Enjoy that 4.0! That's next on my list. Just gota blow up the little 2.9 first. Ha ha.
     
  16. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Yea man I got boat loads of power out of this thing with minor mods (ported/polished heads/intake) full exhaust (headers/duals), cold air intake, etc....I cant wait to see what these 4.10s are gonna do for it. I have 3.27s now and it's a dog at take off.
     
  17. OP
    C Denny Run*

    C Denny Run* New Member

    Why they put 3.27's in a 4x4, I will never understand. You would think 3.73's would be the tallest they would use for any 4x4 application. Did you already buy the gears? If not, you might want to consider 4.56's. A good friend of mine had 4.10's combined with 33's and the 4.0, and was never happy. He eventually went with 4.88's.

    4.10's will obviously be much better than what you have, and I'm sure you'll be fine, but you don't want to re-gear twice! I try think a few years in to the future when I re-gear. The future usually involves 35's :D Here's my equation: 5.13's + 2.9 +35x13.5 = pure sehx Ha ha
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2011
  18. Brinker88

    Brinker88 Black sheep o' the family

    Lol for sure! I dont wheel all that often and I'm on the highway a lot so I think im gonna go with 4.10s. My expo axle already has them in so all I need them for is the front axle (Ill be out less than $400 if I do plan to go to 4.56s)
     

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