Transmission stuck in park, with no flashers, turn signals brake lights and radio

Discussion in 'General Tech' started by Willie, Aug 22, 2023.

  1. Willie

    Willie New Member

    Hi all,
    I'm working on my father-in-laws 2002 ford ranger XLT 4.0 and I'm stumped. The issue is I have no flashers, brake lights, turn signals or radio and the transmission is stuck in park and will not shift. I have already verified all of the fuses and relays both in the engine compartment and the side of the dash and they are all good. The truck starts just fine so it's not the PCM and I think I can rule out the ignition cylinder. The door locks and electric windows work just fine.

    I have replaced the brake light switch, turn signal switch, electronic shift module, the ignition switch (not cylinder) and have tried a couple of GEM(s) but I don't know if they were actually good. I really think it's an electrical issue and I think it might be the GEM but I can't tell if the old one is good or even if the used ones I got are good. Ford no longer makes the GEMs so they are obsolete (assuming it is the GEM).

    I'm stumped. Does anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Willie
     
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  3. OP
    Willie

    Willie New Member

    So I verified continuity to the fuse block in the engine compartment and on the side panel of the dashboard with the engine running and here's what I found. In the engine compartment fuse block I have no power to fuse 48A which is to the fog lamps. The fuse is good but I have no power in the fuse block. Also, I have no power to the fuse block inside of the truck on the dashboard for fuses #33 - 15A (headlamps, instrument cluster) ; #3 - .7.5A (right stop/turn trailer tow) ; #7 - 7.5A (left stop/turn trailer tow) ; #16 - 30A (windshield wiper motor/hi low relay) ; #20 - 7.5A (Run/park relay GEM, radio) ; #24 - 7.5A (clutch pedal position switch ,starter interrupt relay) ; and #28 - 7.5A (GEM, radio). I should have tried this first and saved some money on buying all of the electrical components. So I'm inclined to think that I have a bad fuse link even though I had ohm'd them and they were good. And lastly, I either have a short in the wiring or a bad fuse block in the engine compartment. Or if you have any suggestions I'm open to suggestions....
     
  4. OP
    Willie

    Willie New Member

    The problem is fixed. I had previously ohm'd all of the fuses, fuse links, relays and diodes on both the engine fuse block and the one on the side of the dash in the interior of the truck and they had all been find. I rechecked the ohm amperage in the engine compartment fuse links and I found a blown one. Once I replaced the fuse able link (50A) everything worked just fine. And I am very relieved....
     

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