has anyone used this method successfully? I have drilled the button out under the ignition to the extent the remaining outline or crescent remaining fell out. it's quite clearly gone when looking up through in there but I still cant remove the ignition.. does it have to be in a position other than lock to actually pull the unit out? the instructions on this forum claim you can depress the button and remove the whole unit right from the lock ignition position but that was not the case with my 07 ranger sport.
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heres whats going on.. should I be able to brute force the cyl in the on position if its going to be thrown away anyhow? or will that ruin the housing.. should I be able to brute force it straight out? maybe since I drilled the button out the tab that was connected to it is now extending up into the gap and stopping it from coming out, in which case like a dentists pick tool would be handy? any ideas how to proceed? i'd really like to avoid drilling through the keyway to nuke the tumblers.
What was so wrong with a phillips head screw securing a ring or keeper to hold the lock in place?! If the lock is still usable, have you tried contacting a Ford dealership to see about getting replacement keys? Make/Model/Year/VIN # should be all you need.
Well! Here I am a bit late to the party! LOL For future reference, any decent locksmith could have made up keys for you on the site! Now you've kind of messed up the steering column, now. I know because I was a locksmith for 30 plus years. You have no idea how many times I've had to deal with this exact situation AFTER someone tried to do this on their own with no idea how these things work! This particular lock cylinder MUST be in the accessory position in order for the security pin to be depressed. There's no way around it without completely destroying the lock cylinder. In most cases, the lock codes are available from the manufacturer for up to 10 years. After that time they are purged from all systems. On rare occasions the original dealer MAY still have that information in an old file. Many locksmiths can still get them but only through a service to which they alone have access. However, those are only for the original codes. IF the cylinder has been changed or re-keyed at any time then those codes will be useless. Instead, many locksmiths have trial keys. They have certain combinations of cuts and eventually, one of those will turn the cylinder. From there they can make up a new key to factory specifications. In the future, if anyone has a similar problem, call a locksmith! The cost of having it done properly is well worth the investment!
