I had alot of black vehicle I detailed with my business, and it took me a little bit to get it to a science for black paint, but its a process. I really don't recommend having a "Professional" do it. First reason, its not their truck, they dont care for it as well as the owner will, #2 if you can read the instructions on the clay bar kits, you are now the professional. To do a good 3 step process on your truck, and make the wax last a long time, I used these products and these steps. (You do not need a heavy cutting clay bar if you have maintained your truck with a regular waxing once a year) 1. Meguiars clay bar kit 2. Meguiars liquid cleaning wax 3. Meguiars NXT paste wax Tools I recommend: 7" orbital buffer several applicator pads several microfiber towels Large posicle sticks ALOT of patience! Use a good vehicle shampoo and wash your truck. I recommend the Meguiars Crystal carwash (Purple bottle). Dry your truck thoroughly Clay bar the truck - Follow the instructions its easy. If you drop the clay bar or get any kind of sediment on it, throw it away and use the 2nd bar the kit has in it. Using your orbital buffer and applicator bonnet, apply the cleaner wax. Do it section by section. Once each section is done, remove the dry wax by hand with your micro fiber towels. When you see the dried wax starting to cling to the towel, use a new towel. Some people dont realize, that when the towel or polishing bonnet is used repeatedly, they clog and you just smear the wax all over, it isn't really being removed. Once the truck has been gone over and wiped clean of the cleaner wax, break out the NXT! You will need to wipe down the buffers padding off with a towel to remove any cleaner wax residue, then put on a new applicator bonnet. Using a large popsicle stick, scrape out the NXT wax and apply it to the center of the bonnet (a glob the size of a quarter will do). Start buffing, working the wax up and down, then side to side. Make sure you re-apply wax when needed. Do this in sections, and again remove the wax by hand with micr fiber towles and when it clings to the towels, use a new one. You can also skip the clay bar method and use Meguiars Ultimate compund, applying it with a buffer and clean bonnet in the same method of waxing. Remove the compound also, the same way you remove the wax. I have found it easier to use the compound to remove blemishes with a little elbow grease and it saves alot of time. The Ultimate compound is clear coat safe and will not leave swirl marks. People have their different ways of doing it of course. I maintained a very good business for over 4 years, and I beat out any competitor doing it my own way. So this is how I would and have done it and the results are outstanding! I strongly believe in the same products working great together such as Meguiars compound and wax. They are meant to go together. When you see a wax that say "This wax is all you need" they are wrong. There are all sorts of things that cling to your paint, from grime of your surrounding elements that won't wash off, to shotgun fungus from mulch beds. IF they say wax is all you need, you will be waxing over all those thise clinging to your paint. These things, once removed by clay bar or compound, gives your clear coat new life because all that junk is no longer clinging to it, allowing the wax to serve its proper purpose.
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Any opinions on claying while washing? For example: wash roof, rinse, wash again but this time swiping the clay using the soap as lube. My detailing friend suggested I do it like this when I asked just prior to popping my truck's clay cherry.
I wish I knew this a while ago I gave up waxxing my truck looks pretty sitting in the drive way drive down the street covered in dirt and dust
I wouldnt use the soap, the chemicals in the soap may hinder the clays purpose and not allow it to do its job. If you use the quick detailing spray as the lube, it will come out real well and it blends with the wax
