kerosene flush?

Before my buddy's 49 Ford Custom was given to him,his uncles used kerosene mixed with oil to flush/clean the engine after sitting in their father's garage for 20 yr.They drove it around town like this also.He thinks this might work with my problem ("sounds like a diesel",no oil pressure showing) of a probable plugged oil pickup screen,at least restoring oil flow until warmer weather.I drove it home from Amherst like this (25 mi) so there must be some oil still getting up top.Anybody have any experience or know of a similar situation.Also,is Seafoam available in Canada?Thanks guys.
PS:The plan being to drain the oil and examine it for metal,cork,etc.Then repeating the same procedure.
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I never heard of that one. You should be able to find seafoam at your local auto parts store. When you seafoam your truck you will have to change the oil, and the plugs. Also try running a synthetic blend oil, it has detergents that will take sludge out of the engine. I did synthetic blend for the first 2 oil changes and then went to full synthetic

 

oh, yeah in the midwest that is done on a regular basis to " clean " an engine
never seen it hurt anything

 

Here are a couple google results:
#1_ " Cleaning/flushing an old engine may lead to other disaster. If you still insist, here is my "pro" guide for you:

Using kerosene engine flush

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a NEW oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. Let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear...
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favourite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until it�s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

Dont try on high mileage cars, in an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thi " (thin?)

#2_ " Ok I finished it all up. Went down to the local gas station and filled up a 5 gallon can of kerosene. Needed some for my heater anyway.

Used 1 quart of kerosene for the flush. Bought 6 quarts of Motorcraft 5w30 and MC filter. My truck takes 5 quarts but I used the 6th quart to help drain any excess kerosene out of motor. I left the drain plug out for this part.

Truck ran fine with the kerosene in. Just let it idled for approx. 10 mins. Never made any funny noises, smells etc...

Man when I did drain the kerosene, holy crap!! some unholy black sludge crap come slopping out the drain plug. Not a huge amount but enough to make me say holy **** out loud. I can say for sure the truck does run quieter. My truck used about 1/qt of oil per 1000 miles so I'll keep an eye on the consumption.

Would I reccommend this for every car? probably not because if the vehicle is heavily sludged, I can see how the oil pump screen can get clogged and grenade the engine. Would I reccommend it for preventative maintence? sure! use at your own risk. I wouldn't suggest more than 1qt of kerosene at a time for a flush. -Mike- "

There are oodles of results for "kerosene engine flush" on google.

 

Update:After starting the truck and still no oil pressure,I drained the oil and replaced with diesel after first scrapeing the screen with a wire.The needle came up when when I started it but fell back down after 15 sec.I ran it for about a min and shut it off.I started it again with the same results and on the 3rd startup the needle only came up to about 1/4 and fell back down.I repeated this 2 more times with no needle movement and let it set a couple hrs,then drained the diesel.No lumps or anything came out nor was the oil that was in it dirty.Someone put ATF in the oil before I bought it to quiet the lifters is my opinion which explains the smell and texture of the oil.It was too cold to try to back flush through the pump.The diesel did no additional harm to the engine.Friday's supposed to be warmer...maybe then.I am waiting to hear back from a lady who is selling a 98 B2500 for $350 with cap and bed liner.It's an automatic (410 rear end ?).She said it's saftied till Aug but won't pass again.(Will that '98 engine,2.5,bolt to my,'92,2.3,5 spd tranny?)Thanks
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my gf's exploder was given to her by her brother. he didnt have the time to maintain the p.m. like he should have. when we got the exploder the oil was as black and as thick as tar. so we took it to our mechanic and he added 1qt of kerosene(with the oil) and let it set and idle for around 5-10 mins give or take a min or so. drained the oil added fresh and a new oil filter. then he told us to short change the oil just right after we filled it up. you should have seen the oil that had drained outta it.

 

I'mGlad you had better luck with yours,Klinger.

My bud with the 49 Ford has been a mechanic for about 40 yr although not a high percentage of engine tare-downs (he was the top rated Midas specialist in Halifax).He took me down to Halifax to buy this and said I was 'buying the body'.We didn't expect the engine to last real long but at least till spring.I've been watching Kijiji for a parts truck since I got it.Thanks to all you guys who know what you're doing."I'll be buck".
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I took the oil filter off and it was empty so I gave up on it.I found a 97 with 2.3/5 sp (same as my 92).Are there any issues such as wireing harness,speedometer hookup, I need to know about when swapping?Thanks