Discussion in '1983 - 1988 Ford Ranger' started by thomas 15, Mar 16, 2014.
will 98 Ranger parts fit on a 88 Ford Ranger
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Nope. They're completely different trucks
What parts are you talking about ?
What are you thinking ?
You might find the engine, trans, t/c might go in but electronics are different so may not operate correctly and the bed may swap if the same type of truck but the Cab body panels are different.
I agree. the motor and trans/ t-case might swap, but with any mechanic work you run into problems. i considered replacing my 2.9l with a 3.0l or a 4.0l. the wiring and computers wouldn't add up correctly though. Theoretically though, if you wanted a newer ranger, you could buy a cab, bed, and body panels off a newer one and swap, but whats the point?
I have a friend that did a 4.0 from a close year truck in a BII that had a 2.9.
If I remember correctly when I did the 5.0 conversion the engine harness in the '88 is separate for the main body harness. If not find a good harness in the JY from a 4.0 BII or Ranger, maybe in the 90 1 or 2 range.
Clean up the harness and use it for the conversion; too new and the harness becomes one harness.
Another thought, I have seen someone take apart a '95 one system harness and make a separate body harness for a 5.0 conversion in a 4x, you should be able to get a newer harness and do the same, applicable to your abilities, and make an engine harness for a 4.0L.
Another thought 2: Contact any of the Harness Building Companies that make 5.0 conversion harnesses, they may have something.
Make sure to post your findings, I would think there are a lot of people out there wanting a 4.0L in there early Rangers and BIIs, me I want a 5.0L W engine just can't find any info on conversions in California that I like.
allright. my buddy told me to put a 6.0L diesel in it. i told him he was crazy. no chance it would fit. i measured, its too stinking big. besides, if i wanted a truck w/ a 6.0L i would buy a 2003 f 350.
There is no reason for an engine that big in a Ranger.
Overall performance would suffer dramatically, suspension would suffer, rear axle would explode, steering would need replacing sooner than later.
A 4.0 or IMHO a 5.0 will bring on all the power you need, gear it for power and keep the overall package lighter and safe to drive.
If you have the money the 5.0l conversion is a nice fit for the Ranger.
L&L Products makes a nice conversion kit, the best on the market but pricey. Their workmanship is far superior to anything on the market, design, machining, overall quality of parts. Their headers are super rugged with a 1/2" flange and what looks to me to be about a 12 ga tubing for the runs and a large collector.
I got better gas mileage out of the 5.0 than the 2.9 it replaced, didn't have to push the hell out of the engine.
My only problem was it got hotter than I wanted it to be, never boiled over but the gauge read too hot. Fixed it with a red neck cowl induction hood... Raised the rear of the good one inch, brought the temp down 15 degrees. Seems the sir got blocked in the engine bay and wouldn't let enough air flow to cool the engine.
Off subject a little too much, sorry.
Sounds like what i should do. my 2.9L is ok, quiet, fun little motor but when i try to trailer a quad or even a couple of lawn mowers, it just takes it all away. I'm crawlin up 35mph hills in second gear! no fricking power. definitely looking into a 4.0L at least. thanks for pointing me in a direction.
Something to consider, if you intend to re-gear, do the gear change first the. If the engine still isn't doing it for you then consider the next route.
Also, I find 4.56 gears with 33" tires to be the best choice, or 4.88 hears with 35s.
What would you reccomend for 31's. thats what is on it now. i bought the truck last August with 31 wrangler m/t's on it brand new. the truck was 1,500$. cause my tranny would grind downshifting sometimes. I took a sample of the tranny fluid and found chunks of silicone in it cause somebody rednecked the seal between the tranny and the t/case. I think if it was any cheaper, id'a stole it.
Gears - 4.10 should be ok.
Lift - not sure what you can actually get - 3.5 minimum, 4 or 4.5 would work too.
Contact the Lift Manufacturer and see what their suggestion is but 33" tire need the 6" for clearance.
Roughcountry.com is where my cousin bought his 4 inch lift for his Bronco 2. is was like 450$. probly need a new front shaft though huh?
I used a 4" SkyJacker Lift and was very happy with it.
I have seen the Rough Country and the Pro Comp Lifts fold under harder than normal rock play.
Everyone to there own.
I didn't need a new shafts on either ends.
true. if it was a single cab short bed it would need shafts. supercab models are longer. I looked at rancho but a 2" kit w/ no pitman arm was 850$! skyjacker is probly the best way to go.
It was a std cab short bed !
well, i guess that means that all around rangers are long enough. you know what though, look at the compact pickups over the years. the dakota, the s10, and the ranger. its not difficult to see which one is still going. of all the companies and american brands, looks like ford got it right.
I think you are correct but why don't they get it !
Why get rid of a small truck that was one of the best selling trucks and one of the best selling products Ford had; just doesn't make sense to me.
who knows. the others had major mechanical problems. dodge makes good motors but i have yet to see a transmission that lasts 100,000 miles without being rebuilt. chevy s10's have major issues. every guy i know that had a 4x4 s10 cracked the t-case too easily. ford has some issues too. the ranger's springs are too weak. i put 150lbs in it and it already bottoms out. i talked with a fella at a jy and he said he put chevy 1/2 ton springs in his super cab. worked like a charm. wonder if chevy knows that the ranger has the same suspension as one of their fullsize trucks lol.
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