How To: Auto to Manual Hub Conversion

I nor Rangerforum.net take any responsibility for damage done to you or your truck or anyone around you while performing this work.

This is how to convert from the auto hubs to Manual locking hubs on a third gen.

You will need the conversion kit. I reccomend getting it from here:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/

Tools needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
3/4" or 19MM deep well impact socket.
1/2" breaker bar or 1/2" impact gun (air or electric)
Magnet
(2) flat head screwdrivers
1/2" torque wrench must go from 50 to atleast 200 ft. lbs
3/8" torque wrench 0 to atleast 50 ft. lbs
1/4" torque wrench 0 to atleast 40 in. lbs
3/8" to 1/2" adapter
1/4" to 3/8" adapter

SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED:

these two sockets can be had at your auto zone

2-3/36" socket

Four wheel drive axle socket ( this socket has 4 prongs sticking out you cant miss it)

Okay here we go!

First: Lift front end of truck with jack and place jack stands on frame or on the i beams

WARNING!!!! NEVER WORK ON A VEHICLE IN THE AIR WITHOUT JACK STANDS IN PLACE!!!!!

Second: Remove front wheels





Third: Pull off Auto hub

You should see this now



Fourth: Using the two screwdrivers for off the half moon lock ring by placing one screwdriver on each edge and push them enough to use one screwdriver under it to pull it off ( this is known to go flying sometimes to be ready to catch!)



Fifth: Pull off the splined washer behind that ( in picture above )

You will need to keep the two forementioned parts

Sixth: Pull the plastic/metal cam off ( seen in picture above ( this may take some playing but it comes off ) )

Seventh: Now using your magnet you will see in the spindle a lil notch, in that notch under the lock nut is a lil metal tab, do not try to remove the nut unless this is out or you WILL ruin the lock nut ( dont ask me how i know this )



Eighth: now using the 2-3/32" remove the lock nut ( as seen in picture with the lock ring )

Ninth: now is a great time to repack your wheel bearings, but that will be another write up another time

Tenth: ( your rotor and bearing will want to keep falling off now so just be ready to play with it till after this step )
Using the 4x4 axle socket screw on the nut with the Pin sticking out of it tighten it while turning the rotor to 30ft lbs, then un-tighten it 1/4 of a turn, then re-tighten it to 16 in. lbs



Eleventh: Now place the lock washer ( washer with a bunch of holes in it ) and then screw on the next nut. Now torque that nut to 150 ft. lbs

now it should look like this



Tweaflth: Now put the washer and the lock ring thing back on ( washer first then lock ring )

O i hope you didnt throw those out or you will digging in the trash or spending more money

Or incase you have memory problems this is what they look like



Thirteenth: Now put your hub on

Fourthenth: Install Wheel and torque lug nuts to 80-100 ft. lbs

Now do the other wheel.

AND YOUR DONE!!!!

Now go have fun having to get out of the truck to lock in your hubs in the mud and snow or whatever you get stuck in

Little tip: Make sure you lock in your hubs first then you can put it in 4x4

 

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Great writeup!


If I may add, if you're running bigger tires (33s or larger) it is a good idea to torque your outer nut to 200-250 lb/ft to keep the nut from coming loose. Best bet is to use a spanner wrench on the inner nut to keep it from spinning.

Also, the conversion nuts are spicer, so you can grab them off of chevys as well as fords in a jy.

Also, the lockout hubs take a lot LESS grease to work, so just lube them lightly or you'll have problems with them locking properly..

 

thanks brinker! that means alot coming from you!

and whichever admin, if they approve it, puts this in the official how to's feel free to put in brinker's post also