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I have spent many an hour drooling over Ben's work and his B2.

Sometimes a flush will get it moving. More often than not replacement of the converter is required. I would first try replacing the solenoid and seeing if that has any effect. It is a lot cheaper and easier to do.

I can't think of any Ford V6 that used a belt. Some of the 2.3s did, but most Ford engines use a chain.

About all you can do is replace the retractor/belt unit.

:w00t:

FWIW I almost always recommend a battery when I replace an alternator.

I did that to myself last summer when I did my D-35 swap. It was my first go with the auto-hub hardware and I couldn't find the right spot for the retainer and ended up with the right side over-tightened. Was fine for a week and then started to buzz. For the record, when adjusting a TTB front...

The torque converter has a clutch in it, for lock up, as you probably know. It does sound like your converter clutch is stuck on, at least partially. To get a good picture of how the converter works take two desk fans and point them at each other. Turn one on high and see what the other one...

So far it's been less problematic than some other server moves I've been through. I wouldn't have noticed if you hadn't said something.

Don't get them too tight or you will end up with another noise.

Pff, what isn't in my tool box. Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Craps-man, Lisle, Sandisk, Kingstong (yes, I have computer parts in my tool box) Bic, Equate, Gearwrench. Also, that's a cute tool box. You will outgrow that quickly if you get into anything serious. You should try one of these ones on for size.

Here is me and my sidekick, my oldest, most reliable friend.

Question. WHFH do you need to go even that fast, let alone faster? To quote a great mind, "It's a Ford, not a Ferrari".

Snow prep at my house? 1) put on slippers and jacket 2) go to driveway 3) lock hubs on BII 4) Go back in and drink hot chocolate.

No, you are thinking of dual tanks.

Do tell, what would that accomplish right now? He has no compression. A bad leak from an injector could cause fuel wash, which can kill compression, but usually leaves more than 0. One thing I haven't considered until today, head gasket. But that would probably show in another cylinder or a...

Leave it sit for a day. Then do your compression test on that cylinder again, take your reading, and then add a tablespoon of oil to the cylinder through the plug hole. Repeat test. If the reading bumps a lot, you have a ring issue. A leak down test looks for big holes. 35 PSI won't be enough...

Where is that?

You don't have to sign up there, I've got posts in almost every tech thread there. Google any thing with "ranger" and you probably got a hit with my screen name in it.