33s on 15x10

ok guys so im looking to get a new set of wheels when i get my 33s and im pretty set on the ION alloy 174 wheel i think i want to have my wheels poke out a little more than they are currently with the 35s and 15x8s. im just looking for anyones 2 cents and if anyone has 33s on 15x10s a pic of how far out the wheels are would be amazing!! offset: -38mm which i believe translates to 4 inches of backspacing thanks guys!

 

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33s look better on an 8” rims, without the sidewall of the 35s, the 33s on 10” rims tend to look like they are being forced apart.

The only problem with sticking out more is the turning radius will be reduced.
The arch the tire will travel when turning increases the further away from the pivot point, the ball joints.

My 2 cents… use the 8” rims and be happy with them.
35s on an 8” rims look more ballooning but when you drop in tire diameter and lose some of the sidewall you don’t get the same look.

Find some one in your area and try the tires on your truck.

 

I agree with Scrambler. I am currently running 33x12.5 r15 on a 15x8 wheel. I was going to run the 15x10 but I was told by multiple people on here and other forums to go with the 15x8. Better tread wear, longer lasting life for your tires, and they don't look like they are stuffed.
33X12.5 R 15 on 15x8 wheels. Just the right stance.



And I know you're getting 33's but what width are you getting? 10.5 or 12.5? That can make a difference as well on how it will look in the end, but again, I would still go with 15x8 wheels.

 

Don't do 10" wide tires for 33's

Looks so bad lol.

And why the drop in size?! 35's are badass.

 

-38mm = about 1.5". -38 means off center inward(negative). Should be 3.5" backspace. Or about 1/8" more sticking out than most 10" rims....so almost nothing. Most are 3.625 to 4".


As for 15x10 and 33x12.50....it's common. Definitely not as common as 15x8's, but it does look good on a single lift truck like yours. And considering most tire manufacturers suggest a 9" rim for a 12.50 tire, it's a wash on which one is best....1" under/1" over...blah.


Roughly, 15x10 will put the tire sidewall about 2" past the flare, so your rocker panels aren't gonna like you...but the look is sick. Roughly, 15x8 puts the tire side wall right at the flare. This is all talking about rear fenders....remember, the width of our trucks are wider in the front than the back. Here's some pics of my truck on 15x10's and 12.50's with flares and without to give some comparison. Granted, I'm on 35's and considerably taller, the point is there.

(15x10 w/ 4" backspace...so 1/2" more sucked inside than the Ion's you're looking at)


15x10 w/ 4" backspace vs 15x8 w/ 4" backspace, front.




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And for comparisons sake....here's 15x8 w/ 4" backspace. Imagine them (the rear) being 2" more outward. 32x11.50 only torsion crank.






Just go for it! It's just a smaller version of my truck. 10's and 33x12.50's look sick, but you risk tossing the flares off in off-road situations (hence my flares being off for a few of those pics) especially if they're barely held on (like mine). On the street, they're great.

Because 35's on only a bodylifted truck is stuffed.

Absolutely agree on the 33x10.50 comment though. Plus he wouldn't be putting 10.50 tires on 10" rims....this ain't Hawaii or Stance Nation. lol.

 

Thanks for everyone's input! My decision was forced upon me tho.. Gotta stick with the wheels I have now. Last night my far back u joint catastrophically failed (I was gonna replace both tomorrow -_-) and sheared my drive shaft. I tried to press in a new u joint but it completely screwed it so I'm gonna have to get a new drive shaft. I have a pic of the joint might put a pic of the shaft later

 

Hahaha damn man. I caught mine just before it did that. I was going to do mine sooner but was waiting on parts.



Yours must have been vibrating like craaaazy.

 

It vibrated like crazy! It's my luck that it blew out 2 days before I was gonna change em -_- so gotta new aluminum driveshaft coming in the mail! Got the new one for 18$ more than it woulda cost to get the old one repaired

 

Good deal.

I hope your pinion bearing is fine. About 2 weeks after I replaced my u joint my pinion bearing started making sounds. It had gone bad thanks to the vibrating cause by a bad u joint.

 

....and how much would that cost me if it had gone bad? :blink:

 

In parts, bout $350-450

In labour, around $600-700 depending on shop rate lol.

 

....... :hang:

 

lol. yep. the second i heard the sound i instantly regretted waiting so long to replace my u joint.

hope yours doesnt do the same! it may not. im pretty hard on my truck lol

 

If it does I might literally cry lol

 

DAMN! I would have done it as soon as I had the 1330's on-hand. But hindsight is 20/20 and sh!t happens.

Where's the damage to the shaft? What part actually was damaged? The u-joint cup ears? She should've been yelling at you like hell before she went pop. Especially at low speeds.



Sorry you're having so much hell with this truck. It's gotta be frustrating taking care of someone elses negligence.

Canadian rates too. lol.

Here, that kind of money is full rebuild rates for parts+labor. Surely a toast pinion bearing doesn't mean a full rebuild. Heck the bearings themselves are about $15 US and seal about $8 US. It's an hour job for a competent shade-tree mechanic like myself. But does require a trip to somewhere with a press.

 

Mine was a full rebuild minus ring/pinion gears.

And ya. Canadian prices lol.
$90/hour labour. Doesn't sound to terrible to me.