inertia switch location

Discussion in '1989 - 1992 Ford Ranger' started by procadman, Sep 23, 2012.

  1. procadman

    procadman New Member

    (I know there is another thread similar to this but was unsure whether to reply to it or start a new one.)

    I have an '89 Ranger Extended Cab, 2.9, auto.

    It was totaled last year. I have driven it about 500 miles since the frame was straightened.

    After finishing it for a title inspection, replacing salvage panels with new, it decided not to start.

    There is a breakdown in power or signal between the fuel pump and it's relay. The fuel pump, only 1,5 years old, works perfectly well when voltage is applied directly to it and I jumpered the relay connector just to double check.

    The inertia switch's continuity also checks out. I also jumpered its connector.

    When the key is turned on and fuel should be pumping and pressurizing the system nothing happens.

    The wiring diagram shows only these three components and the ECM in the circuit.

    Any ideas?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2012
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  3. 360Ranger

    360Ranger USAF Veteran

    >>>>

    Generally its located in the passenger side kick panel or same side under dash where passengers feet would be.......
     
  4. doyouquaxu

    doyouquaxu FUUUUUUUUUUUUU

    Fuel pump relay?
     
  5. OP
    procadman

    procadman New Member

    NO, tried a new one, checked the old one and bipassed the relay altogether. No change.

    Somewhere in the starting cycle it will pump for a second or 2. Otherwise it's getting no voltage.
     
  6. OP
    procadman

    procadman New Member

    Next thing I'll try is powering the fuel pump directly and seeing if the engine will run.
    Other than a continuity issue, which is highly unlikely, I am at a loss.
     
  7. OP
    procadman

    procadman New Member

    You can look at my profile album to see what it looked like last winter...
    I was 500 miles from home and forced to have a local "recommended" body shop do the work.
    Turns out the recommendation was second hand and the guy turned out to be an a-hole.
    Tuttle Autobody, Moline IL. Stay Away from there.
    He promised new major body parts.
    It took almost a year to get it back.
    He used salvage parts and said "new parts weren't available".
    I replaced all major doghouse parts, less the hood, for around $600 from Rock Auto in Indy, and I am in the process of suing him.
    In addition he "lost the paperwork" that is necessary for me to retitle with salvage parts.

    At any rate, I have it all back together and just need to iron this wrinkle out to get it inspected.
     
  8. kimbertif

    kimbertif New Member

    hey a cool gang is here
    'm still studying everything on this forum
    but it will certainly succeed
    greetings kimbertif
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 13, 2012

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